A Crossroads of Empires
Located between Europe and Africa, the strategic position of Sardinia and Sant’Antioco, combined with rich mineral reserves, brought waves of power-hungry peoples to its shores. Precious natural resources (silver and lead), along with fertile arable land, made the island a target for the great powers of the Mediterranean. The first foreigners on the scene were the great navigators and enterprising Phoenicians (from modern-day Lebanon).
But well before that (from 8000 BC to 3000 BC), Sardinia was home to several thriving tribal communities. The island was the perfect home for the average Neolithic family: it was covered in thick forests full of animals, featured caves for shelter, and offered land suitable for grazing and farming. There was no shortage of rich veins of obsidian, a black volcanic glass used to make tools and arrowheads.
One thing is certain: the mysterious and unfathomable nuraghi of Sardinia reveal a highly evolved civilization. The Nuragic people were sophisticated builders, using precisely cut stones for their temples; they traveled and traded or bartered goods (as revealed by the discovery of seal remains and mussel shells inland); and they had the time, skills, and resources to settle down, build villages, and devote themselves to worship and arts such as ceramics and jewelry. Some historians even argue that the Nuragic population of Sardinia were the Sherden (or Shardana), defined as the "Sea Peoples" who appear in early Egyptian inscriptions.
Phoenicians, Carthaginians, and Romans
Returning to the Phoenicians, they initially lived in relative harmony with the local Nuragic people, who seemed quite happy to leave the coastal settlements to the newcomers: Karalis (Cagliari), Bitia (near modern Chia), Sulcis or Sulki (modern Sant’Antioco), Tharros, and Bosa. However, when the foreigners ventured inland, took over the trade of precious silver, and began running the mines in the southwest, things changed, and the locals began to rebel.
The Phoenicians then appealed to Carthage for help. The Carthaginians were happy to comply and joined the Phoenician forces in conquering most of the island. Most, but not all. As the Carthaginians discovered the hard way, and the Romans likewise realized, the rugged mountainous area now known as the Barbagia did not take kindly to foreign intrusion. Other tangible vestiges of the Phoenicians can be seen in the historic center of Sant’Antioco, which is dotted with necropolises and features an intact tophet, a sanctuary where the Phoenicians and Carthaginians buried their stillborn children. Monte Sirai, near Carbonia, offers a glimpse into the island’s past with its ruined Phoenician fort—the first inland fortress, built in 650 BC following clashes with the Sardinians.
In 216 BC, the Carthaginians were defeated by the Romans, who built roads and developed centers in Karalis, Nora, Sulcis, Tharros, Olbia, and Turris Libisonis (Porto Torres), as well as Sant’Antioco—a center so important that it was authorized to mint its own coins.
The ambitious Roman Republic faced two main challenges to its desire to control the southern Mediterranean: the Greeks and the Carthaginians. The Romans first clashed with the Greeks and then, in 241 BC, turned their attention to Carthaginian-controlled Sardinia. The Romans arrived in Sardinia bolstered by their victory over Carthage in the First Punic War. But if the legionnaires thought they had an easy path, they were sorely mistaken. The Sardinians and their former enemies, the Carthaginians, were in no mood for warm greetings and fought them fiercely in bloody clashes. However, once Sardinia was in their hands, the Romans began to mold it to their needs. Despite endemic malaria and frequent harassment from the locals, they expanded the Carthaginian cities, built a road network to facilitate communication, and organized a highly efficient agricultural system.
The Middle Ages and Beyond
After the fall of the Roman Empire, a leap in time brings us to the Byzantine era. With its rich natural resources and absent Byzantine rulers, Sardinia was an inviting target, and the island was repeatedly sacked in the 9th and 10th centuries. But as Arab power began to wane in the early 11th century, Christian ambition flourished. In 1015, Pope Benedict VIII asked the republics of Pisa and Genoa to lend Sardinia a hand against the common Islamic enemy. The ambitious princes of Pisa and Genoa hastened to seize the opportunity.
Fun Fact: The Sardonic Smile When Homer wrote of the hero Ulysses smiling "sardonically" when attacked by one of his wife's former suitors, he was surely alluding to a smile in the face of danger. Yet the word sardonic, from the Greek root sardánios, has come to mean simply "scornful" or "mocking" in modern usage. If recent scientific discoveries are confirmed, Homer might have been on the right track with his hint of danger. Studies conducted by scientists at the University of Eastern Piedmont in 2009 identified hemlock water dropwort (Oenanthe crocata) as the cause of the sardonic smile—of Sardinia, naturally. It seems that in pre-Roman times, ritual killings were carried out using this poisonous herb (known locally as "water celery"). The elderly, the infirm, and anyone who had become a burden to society were intoxicated by the lethal concoction, which caused their facial muscles to contract into a manic, sardonic grin before they were definitively put down, pushed off a cliff, or brutally beaten. Regardless of whether the word sardonic refers to this sinister prehistoric practice, it seems the findings could have positive implications in the medical field. The head of the Botany Department at the University of Cagliari, Mauro Ballero, believes that the molecule in the hemlock water dropwort extract could be modified by pharmaceutical companies to work as a muscle relaxant to help people recover from facial paralysis.
Carthaginians, Romans, Aragonese, and Pisans all left their indelible mark on Sardinia. Thanks to their inner pride and a certain nostalgic spirit, Sardinians have not allowed time and the elements to erase their history. Travelers can easily immerse themselves in the chapters of the island's past by exploring tombs, towers, fortresses, and churches.
Another leap in time brings us to 1410: Sardinia was divided into four provinces: Logudoro in the northwest, Cagliari in the south, Arborea in the west, and Gallura (meaning rooster, from the Latin Gallus) in the northeast. During the era of these four provinces (known as Giudicati), for much of the 300 years between the 11th and 14th centuries, the island was fought over by mainland rivals. Described as the Boudicca or Joan of Arc of Sardinia, Eleonora d'Arborea (1340–1404) is the charismatic figure of Sardinia's medieval history and embodies the deeply rooted fighting soul of the islanders.
The Spanish chapter of Sardinia makes for grim reading. Spanish involvement dates back to the early 14th century. In 1323, the Aragonese invaded the southwestern coast, the first act of a chapter that was to last about 400 years.
Piedmontese rule (from 1720 until Italian unification in 1861) wasn't a bed of roses either, but unlike their Spanish predecessors, the Savoy authorities actually visited the areas they were governing. The island was ruled by a viceroy who, by and large, managed to maintain control. Finally, Sardinia was granted autonomy in 1948.
A History of Mining
As previously mentioned, Sardinia's rich mineral reserves were exploited as early as the 6th millennium BC. Obsidian was a major source of income for the early communities of Ozieri and a highly sought-after product. Later, the Romans and Pisans tapped into rich veins of lead and silver in the Iglesias and Sarrabus areas. By the end of the 1860s, there were 467 lead, iron, and zinc mines in Sardinia, and at its peak, the island produced up to 10% of the world's zinc. But as much as material conditions improved, a miner's life was still desperately hard, and working-class unrest was not uncommon. Mining production remained high during Italy's post-war boom years, but demand began to fall rapidly in the following decades.
Although the island of Sant’Antioco has been inhabited since prehistoric times, the town of Sant’Antioco was founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC. Known as Sulcis, or Sulki, it was the industrial capital of Sardinia and a major port until the demise of the Roman Empire more than a millennium later. It owes its current name to Saint Antioco, a Roman slave who brought Christianity to the island when he was exiled here in the 2nd century AD. It is not hard to find evidence of the town’s ancient past: the hilltop historic center is full of Phoenician necropolises and fascinating archaeological finds.
Must-See Attractions:
Ferruccio Barreca Archaeological Museum: This "little great" museum (small in size, great in content) in the town of Sant'Antioco is one of the best in this part of southern Sardinia. It exhibits artifacts spanning millennia of ancient history, including a superb collection of Nuragic bronzetti (bronze figurines) which, in the absence of written records, are a vital source of information on Sardinia's mysterious Nuragic culture (approx. 1800–500 BC), as well as terracotta, amphorae, and jewelry. The museum spans history chronologically, deftly moving from pre-Nuragic times to the Bronze and Iron Ages, the Phoenicians, and the Romans.
Basilica of Sant'Antioco: Behind the modest Baroque facade lies a sublime 5th-century church. To the right of the altar is a wooden effigy of Saint Antioco, a martyr of North African origin enslaved by the Romans and later hidden in the eerie catacombs of the basilica. Accessible only by guided tour, the catacombs consist of a series of burial chambers, some dating back to the Punic era, used by Christians between the 2nd and 7th centuries.
The Tophet: Located about 500 meters from the town's Archaeological Museum, this is an 8th-century BC sacred site where Phoenicians and Carthaginians buried their stillborn children. Before visiting, it is worth checking out the tophet exhibit at the Archaeological Museum to see how the tombs were arranged.
Forte Sabaudo (Savoy Fort): This 19th-century Piedmontese fort marks the highest point in the town of Sant'Antioco.
The Nuraghi: There are about 8,000 of these mysterious stone towers in Sardinia (some over twenty meters high), with more than 40 on the island of Sant'Antioco alone—though this is only a fraction of the estimated original 30,000. These prehistoric monuments can date back to 3500 BC, but to this day, no one can assign them a precise function. Religious temples, ordinary dwellings, rulers' residences, military strongholds, meeting halls, artisan workshops, or a mix of these are still being studied. These architectural enigmas remain unexplained. The island is also dotted with Bronze Age towers and settlements, Giants' Tombs, domus de janas ("fairy house" tombs), and sacred wells. Visit the Nuragic site of Grutti e Acqua, one of the most important in Sardinia, featuring a beautiful Nuragic pond just a short distance from the Glamping Erbe Matte farmhouse.
Iglesias: The Iberian atmosphere of Iglesias and its collection of churches make it a fascinating place to explore. Although named after its churches—Iglesias means churches in Spanish—the town has a long history as a mining center.
Necropolis of Montessu: A prehistoric cemetery set in a rocky amphitheater, this is one of the most important archaeological sites in Sardinia, located in the lush countryside near Villaperuccio.
Nuraghe Su Nuraxi: Relive the Bronze Age at this UNESCO World Heritage site in the heart of the voluptuous green countryside near Barumini, one of the most visited nuraghi on the island.
Nora: Explore the Phoenician and Roman history of this ancient city on a peninsula near Pula and Cagliari. Originally a village of indigenous Sardinians, it soon became an emporium, then a Phoenician city, later Carthaginian, and finally a crucial trading port in Roman times. Dive (if you can) or snorkel to admire the Roman roads and submerged ruins of Nora.
Semaforo di Capo Sperone: Just over a kilometer from the Erbe Matte Glamping and Farmhouse—a pleasant walk. Much of the original historic construction has been scavenged for building materials (now it is a big work-in-progress project), its undeniable charm has survived to capture the imagination, and the view from here is truly breathtaking. Keep your phone and camera handy!
Temple of Antas: Browse the Roman ruins at this beautiful, imposing Roman temple set in bucolic scenery 9 km south of Fluminimaggiore, isolated since the 3rd century AD. Built by the Emperor Caracalla, it was erected over a 6th-century BC Punic sanctuary, which itself was built on a previous Nuragic settlement. In its Roman form, the temple was dedicated to Sardus Pater, a Sardinian deity worshipped by the Nuragic people as Babai and by the Punics as Sid, the god of warriors and hunters.
Galleria Henry: Dating back to Buggerru's days as a mining center, this is a 1 km long tunnel dug in 1865 to allow a small train to transport minerals from the bowels of the earth to the washing sites. The little train, now for tourists, runs through it, weaving in and out of the rocks, offering a fantastic and dazzling view of the sea just 50 meters below you. Be sure to check opening days and times.
Tratalias: This was once the religious capital of the entire Sulcis area. Today, the church presides over the carefully restored ancient village of Tratalias—the medieval part of the town that was abandoned in the 1950s after water from the nearby Lake Monte Pranu began to overflow. Consecrated in 1213, this beautiful church is an excellent example of Sardinian-Pisan Romanesque architecture. Unfortunately, it is not always open for interior visits, so ask for information.
Rosas Mining Village: Located in Narcao, this is a fascinating museum complex housed in what was once a major lead, copper, and zinc mine. It now hosts musical events, shows, and food and wine tastings.
